Favourite real ale pubs in Leeds city centre

Inside the impressive Adelphi pub in Leeds city centre. Photo attribution: Thomas Ackroyd

The pubs of Leeds – or, at least, the good pubs of Leeds – are strewn haphazardly about the city, some here, some there, others in the backside of nowhere, leaving the uninitiated drinker in grave danger of stumbling unaware into a JD Wetherspoon’s. Clearly, some sort of helpful and informative guide is needed. This guide is that guide.

My definition of a pub

But first we need to define our terms. By ‘pub’, I mean something that could never be described as a ‘bar’ – which means that I’m not going to talk about such genuinely marvellous watering-holes as North Bar, Sela, the Reliance, or – most marvellous of all – the Nation of Shopkeepers.

No, I’m talking about boozers. Another qualification: I’m not one of those pub-goers who judge by beer alone – the sort that will tolerate overflowing toilets, hallucinogenic decor and a jukebox that features nothing but the works of Collins-era Genesis as long as there’s cask-conditioned Arkwright’s Old Coldsore on the hand-pump.

I do demand decent beer, but I’d also like good atmosphere, nice surroundings, a good range of snacks and spirits, and, if it’s not too much trouble, wine that doesn’t take the enamel off your teeth.

Grove Inn

So where should we start? How about the Grove Inn, an incongruously old-school pub nestled at the foot of the looming Bridgewater Plant tower-block complex. It’s widely known for two things: good beer and good music (as you might expect, we’re not talking the latest in dubstep or electro here, but if the prospect of jazz bands and folk-singing doesn’t scare you off then there are few better venues in West Yorkshire).

There are also more eclectic attractions. For instance, you have the choice of a number of rooms in which to drink and talk, which makes for good atmosphere and avoids that undesirable Wetherspoony airport-lounge feel. There’s also often an elderly terrier to be found wandering about the place: a treat for the old-school pub aficionado.

The Cross Keys

At the same end of town, just a shortish stroll down Water Lane, is, for my money, the best pub in town. The Cross Keys belongs to the stable of venues that includes North Bar, Further North in Chapel Allerton and Alfred’s in Meanwood (as well as, brilliantly, the Mr Frothy mobile bar).

It’s stylish without being cold, and classy without being snooty; the range of ales is fantastic (there’s a pump dedicated to beers from Knaresborough’s Roosters brewery, always one cask stout or porter on tap, and two pumps’ worth of guest ale), and it’s obvious that this is a place that cares about the quality of its wines and spirits.

It’s also a gastro-pub in the proper sense of the term: not uninspired Thai fishcakes and sauce-slathered barbecue chicken, but traditional British food made with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients; the acclaimed Sunday roasts are a match for your mum’s, and there’s a kids’ menu, too. And if the weather permits, there’s loads of room to sit, drink and eat outside in the courtyard. Caveat: it’s not cheap. But there’re few better places to spend your Sunday.

The Victoria Hotel

Saunteringly slightly downmarket, we find ourselves considering the venues managed by the increasingly ubiquitous Nicholson’s chain, which, by maintaining an admirable focus on real ale and sausages, seems to have gathered most of Leeds’ historic pubs in its embrace. You can be sniffy about chain pubs, if you want – but if do, you’ll be missing out.

The Victoria Hotel on Great George Street, behind the Town Hall, is a striking chunk of Victoriana in the heart of the city. Many of the pub’s original nineteenth-century features remain (it was built in 1865): it’s not the most stylish venue you’ll ever see, but it’s steeped in history and retains a bustling charm.

It’s spacious and split into several rooms, so it’s seldom too hard to find a seat (if you’re lucky, you might be able to grab a berth in one of the handsome windowed booths by the bar). This being a Nicholson’s, the range of ales is generous bordering on the bewildering, the prices are none-too-painful, and the food will do. It’s handily situated, too: northwards is the run of lovably scruffy pubs up to the university and beyond, while on the other side of the Town Hall are ale-fanciers’ favourites Mr Foley’s and the Town Hall Tavern.

The Adelphi

Lovers of pub Victoriana should also be sure to stop by another of Leeds’ crowning glories: the Adelphi Hotel on Hunslet Rd, just across the bridge on the way out of town. Like any great institution, the Adelphi has its chunterers and hecklers who mutter that it’s not as good as it used to be – which may be true, but doesn’t really detract from the pub’s excellence.

It’s a huge place, quartered into four downstairs and also boasting an upstairs bar and sheltered (if not hugely sheltered) beer garden/smokers’ huddling-place.

The beer is always varied and well-chosen, the food is very good, the bar snacks are impressively unusual, and the staff are simply great. When the post-work crowd are out in force, even the Adelphi’s seating resources can be stretched, but the service always remains friendly and efficient (or at least as efficient as can be expected in the face of a four-deep bar-scrum).

The pub prides itself on being a Sunday-afternoon specialist, laying out newspapers and offering top-notch Sunday roasts and potent Bloody Marys. The only problem with that is, after a big Saturday night out, you might be reluctant to inflict further damage on your pocket by stumping up for the Adelphi’s on-the-steep-side prices.

But never mind that: the Adelphi is a real all-rounder, daytime or night-time, schoolnight or weekend, real-ale or craft Euro-lager, suit-and-shoes or beard-and-check-shirt.

Additional recommended Leeds pubs

This is only a small selection, of course, of the praiseworthy pubs to be found in Leeds city centre. I haven’t mentioned the distinctly raffish and budget-friendly Angel in its just-off-Briggate yard, or, a few doors down, the historic Whitelocks. And that’s only in LS1 – once you venture into the suburbs, a whole new world of pub-opportunity opens up. But that will have to wait for another day. For now – that’s time, gentlemen, please.

Leeds Map

Browse the map and click on the pins to find the location of the places featured in this guide.

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