The City Varieties Music Hall isn’t the first theatrical celebrity to reach ‘a certain age’ and decide to have a major facelift. But most don’t wait until they’re 144 years old – and most facelifts don’t take two-and-a-half years to finish. In January 2009, the Varieties – a Grade II listed theatre that has been entertaining the people of Leeds since 1865 – shut down for refurbishment.

Keeping the character and style that made it a go-to venue

It needed modernising and, more importantly, the facilities for access and movement within the building were limiting the theatre’s ability to reach out to all members of the community. Modern theatres do so much more than simply put on a show; audience development, outreach and education were key goals for the team beyond the Varieties’ overhaul.

At the same time, the revamp has sought to restore to the theatre much of the character and style that made it a go-to venue in its late-Victorian heyday. Historic features such as the ceilings and main staircase have been restored.

The soft furnishings have been spruced up, the lighting re-jigged, the windows re-glazed, the sound system brought up to date. The centrepiece of this fusion of the Victorian and the 21st-century is a glazed public lift that brings new flash and glitter to gloomy little Swan Street.

From pub back room to famous Music Hall

There’s no getting away from the fact that the City Varieties Music Hall is, not to put too fine a point on it, up a back-alley. This is both a big part of its charm and a reminder of its history: for years, the Varieties was a none-too-upmarket rival to the rather snootier Grand.

Indeed, it started out as little more than a pub’s back room, a place for the adjoining White Swan to put on music-hall acts. In the 1890s, the music-hall nights staged at the Scarbrough Hotel on Bishopsgate Street by owner Fred Wood served as try-out sessions for the Varieties’ talent scouts.

City Varieties best-known British venue

The Varieties was one of the country’s best-known venues for Victorian music-hall (the genre that gave us such enduring hits as Burlington Bertie and I Do Like To Be Beside The Seaside and made stars of the likes of Will Hay, Marie Lloyd and Stan Laurel). Music-hall was known for its sing-a-long musical standards, cheeky sense of humour, and rowdy, beery audiences – all of which meant that it was (a) great fun and (b) frowned upon by the Better Element.

Home to BBC longest running variety show

As ‘music hall’ morphed into ‘variety’ with the emergence of radio and TV in the 20th century, the City Varieties found itself playing host to BBC television’s longest-running variety show: ‘The Good Old Days’, a nostalgia-fest that was broadcast from the theatre from 1953 to 1983.

Performers dressed in the costume of the music-hall age, sometimes impersonating real personalities; the show was always brought to a close with a rousing rendition of ‘Down at the Old Bull and Bush’.

Among those appearing during the show’s heyday were Morecambe and Wise, Bruce Forsyth, Les Dawson, Eartha Kitt and the ‘Lido Can-Can Girls’. It’s unlikely that any of them had to audition at the Scarbrough Hotel first.

The new look White Swan

The new Varieties retains its historic links with Leeds pub culture: to widespread delight, the theatre’s triumphant re-opening was accompanied by the re-launch of its sister hostelry, The White Swan. In the past, the Swan had something of a raffish reputation (to say the least: one police officer in the 1980s described it as “a cesspool of vice”).

Now reopened with the support of the increasingly ubiquitous Leeds Brewery, it has replaced the small circle bar as the Varieties’ main watering hole. Before its closure in ’09, the Swan had favoured quirky decor and a louche, loungey feel; for its new role, it has basically given a haircut, shave and shoe-shine – it looks sleeker and smarter.

Friends of the City Varieties

The rebirth of the City Varieties has not, of course, come cheap. The fund-raising process has been a marathon effort, not least on the part of the ‘Friends of the City Varieties’, who, through a series of ventures – including opening their own charity shop on Eastgate – have contributed more than £165,000 towards the redevelopment. Further financial fillips have come courtesy of the Monument Trust, personal donations, and innovations such as the ‘seat sponsorship’ scheme.

The Good Old Days are back

Now the theatre is up and running again, high-profile acts are queuing up to perform and strong ticket sales will surely ensue. The Varieties’ forthcoming comedy roster is particularly impressive: the venue that once hosted the likes of Les Dawson and Morecambe & Wise now welcomes stars including Stephen K. Amos, Rob Brydon and Omid Djalili. The venue is also developing as a great venue for folk and alternative music acts: June Tabor, Mike Harding and the former Byrds frontman Roger McGuinn are all to appear.

City Varieties is the jewel in Leeds’ crown

One of the most impressive aspects of the Leeds theatre scene is its capacity for reinvention. The same vigour that saw the Howard Assembly Room go from porno cinema to high-class arts venue in the space of thirty years has now seen the old trouper of Swan Street re-emerge as one of the city’s most exciting Bright Young Things.

Find out what’s on at the City Varieties

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The Good Old Days are Back at City Varieties

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Christmas may fast be becoming a fading memory but studies show that regular exercise can help stimulate positive thoughts and feelings: ideal as many of us want to make a change to our lifestyle and be healthier in 2012. Wherever you are based in and around Leeds there are plenty of gyms and fitness centres to cater for all levels. Here, we profile a selection for you.

The Gym in the Core

The Gym, located in The Core Shopping Centre, is a modern-looking and spacious gym and is open 24-hours a day, seven days a week offering a wide range of equipment such as high-tech rowing machines, a range of exercise bikes and running machines, chest presses, leg extension, arm extension machines, arm curl and abdominal machines, all aimed at covering cardiovascular and resistance training.

Although The Gym offer a high quality exercise and gym facility, in deciding to offer a ‘no frills and fuss’ offering they do not offer sauna, steam, spa or pool facilities. As a result though, one of the unique selling points of The Gym is that there is no contract; simply pay a monthly fee that comes with no notice period or cancellation charge.

Esporta

Located in the Light on the Headrow, Esporta, an all-inclusive premium health club features state of the art equipment, including ViPR, Kettlebells and TRX and membership allows you the chance to design and build a programme you’re comfortable with from the range of facilities available.

In addition to the impressive gym facilities, Esporta also has available a range of Spa and health and beauty treatments available as well as a number of sports activities that provide members the opportunity to participate in, such as racquets sports as well as team sports ranging from golf to martial arts.

Pure Gym

Situated by the side of the Corn Exchange, Pure Gym is aimed at both the gym pro or those who want to become more healthy when it comes to exercise and fitness. Designed around modern lifestyles where not everyone works 9-5 there is the option of being able to work out day or night with the gym being open twenty-four hours a day.

Pure Gym have a huge range of equipment with a range of over 220 pieces including spin bikes and training platforms. There are also 40 different classes available each week, including Zumba, Pilates, Boxercise and Pure Abs. All members received a free induction upon joining and are able to tailor personal programmes around weight loss or even to develop fitness for a particular sport.

Fitness First

Located off Kirkstall Road, Fitness First has an offer a range of classes and specialist areas in addition to the standard equipment found in most gyms. One of the benefits offered is their exclusive fitness programme, Bodyfirst, where a Personal Trainer will work with you in three 45-minute one-to-one sessions to create your very own ‘fitness journey’.

Fitness First also offer their Freestyle area, a specific space housing the some of the most up to date and innovative training equipment – including ViPR, Suspension training, Bosu balls and Power bags – that allows users to focus on the whole body as opposed to equipment that solely concentrates on a single muscle group.

Bodylines

Bodylines Gym is one of the longest running gyms in Leeds and prides itself on a focus on effective weight training. There is a particular emphasis on free weights as part of the available equipment and members can also receive advice on areas as diverse as nutrition and sleeping habits to help aid a training programme.

Virgin Active

Located on Great George Street on the outskirts of the city centre, Virgin Active offers both a gym facility and personal training programmes. There is up to date exercise equipment in addition to a range of studio classes, toning circuit and steam room.

There is also the Club V offering, which has activities around eductational play and fitness catering for children. Access to Leeds Life Centre at weekends is also an additional benefit as part of the membership.

The Village

The Village has over 70 pieces of equipment plus a range of classes and full-length 25 metre swimming pool. Their aim is to offer ‘fitness at your own pace’ and as well as being somewhere to exercise and get fit, there are treatments ranging from facials, manicures and pedicures to relaxing aromatherapy massages and detoxifying wraps available for members.

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The history of cinema is woven into the fabric of the history of Leeds. In 1888, a garden on Oakwood Grange Road, Roundhay, was the setting for the world’s first celluloid film: Louis le Prince’s two-seconds-long Roundhay Garden Scene. In 1914, the famous Hyde Park Picture House opened its doors; nearly a hundred years later, it remains as one of the country’s most beautiful independent cinemas.

Thriving Leeds independent film scene

The Leeds independent film scene that is served so well by the Picture House – and by screenings at venues such as the Carriageworks and Chapel Allerton’s Seven Arts Centre – has another outpost in an unlikely venue: the former woollen mill beside the canal that now houses the Armley Mills Industrial Museum.

Most overlooked visitor attraction

The ‘Miniciné’ cinema – or perhaps cinema-ette, as it can seat an audience of just 26 – is a gem within a gem. The museum itself is one of Leeds’ most unjustly overlooked visitor attractions. Set in a surprisingly pretty canal-side dell, the museum’s exhibits include fascinating artefacts from the city’s manufacturing heyday, plus, on ‘working weekends’, the chance to see industrial dinosaurs such as steam locomotives and water-wheels in action.

Also on show is the museum’s excellent collection of antique film-making and projection equipment, where visitors can learn about cinema landmarks like le Prince’s film of Leeds Bridge. But the museum’s commitment to historic cinema doesn’t stop there.

Reproduction of a 1920s cinema

The ‘Miniciné’ auditorium, adjoining the museum’s basement galleries, is an authentic reproduction of a 1920s cinema. The red-plush seats and fittings were recovered from Armley’s venerable Palace Picture House when it closed down in 1964; vintage posters advertising Orson Welles in Citizen Kane (‘It’s terrific!’) and Marlene Dietrich in The Blue Angel stare down from the gas-lit walls, and the projectionist’s cubby-hole houses an authentic (and enormous) antique projector.

But the cinema is more than a mere museum-piece. A state-of-the-art DVD projector shares the cubby-hole with its forerunner, and on the fourth Thursday of every month the venue hosts ‘Miniciné’ evenings, aiming to bring the best of independent film to Leeds’ many cineastes.

Made to feel welcome

‘Miniciné’, now under the stewardship of local film journalist Mike McKenny, is a fantastic addition to the many and varied film-going experiences on offer in Leeds. On my visit, I was immediately made to feel welcome as I, along with twenty-odd other chatty, friendly film fans, helped myself to coffee and (most impressively) home-baked cake before settling down for the screening.

Outlet for new local film-makers

Mike hopes to provide an outlet for new local film-makers as well as those who have already made their mark. Accordingly, ‘Bottled Life’, one of the two shorts that preceded the August main feature, was the work of Yorkshire film student Josh Tucker. The second short, ‘Unearthing the Pen’ (Carol Slater, 2009), was a thoughtful study of a young Ugandan shepherd – a contrast with the jump-cuts and abstract imagery of ‘Bottled Life’, and a sure sign of a curator with pleasingly eclectic tastes.

The main feature this month was ‘Punishment Park’ (Peter Watkins, 1971), a compelling faux documentary exploring ideas of violence in the America of the late 60s and early 70s. The film splices heated opinionising with brutal conflict in the Mojave desert as long-haired LA radicals are pitted against the reactionary forces of ‘law and order’: a pretty gruelling hour-and-a-half. Particularly memorable were the performances of an afro-sporting Carmen Argenziano (now a familiar face in small roles on US TV) and, particularly, Jim Bohan as a sweatily unnerving sheriff.

After the screening, we were all invited to submit our ‘star ratings’ for each of the three films we’d seen. Feedback like this will help Mike choose which films to show at future events.

Tiniest British cinema

There may be some dispute over whether ‘Miniciné’ is the tiniest British cinema of them all – there’s stiff competition from similarly bijou cinema-ettes in Torquay and Nottingham – but it certainly succeeds in its stated aim of “bringing a refreshing and intimate cinema experience to West Yorkshire”.

Support Minicine screenings at the Abbey Mills Cinema

If you can’t make it to the ‘Miniciné’ screenings, there are other opportunities to experience miniature movie-going at the Mills. On the last Sunday of each month, the auditorium hosts a Family Film Club – and kids get in free. And if you can’t make it to that either, then you should still make your way to Armley Mills whenever you can, and see the many fascinating sights that the museum has to offer.

Visit the Armley Mills Cinema Minicine website for more information.

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Night out at the historic Armley Mills Cinema

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On a typically British, sunny-warm-cool-rainy-warm-again day in the long summer break it’s hard enough to decide what to wear never mind where to go so here are a couple of ideas for fun things to do around Leeds with kids in tow. They involve my two favourite activities: eating ice-cream and immersing myself in water.

Country walk from Fulneck to Goodalls in Tong

A fairly easy but steep country walk from Fulneck in Pudsey followed by a nice sit down and an ice-cream at Goodalls in Tong. Start at Fulneck Moravian settlement, which is a cluster of cottages, a restaurant and a private school at the edge of Pudsey. You will be walking for about 25 minutes in each direction if you start here and there are two steep hills to walk up so it is fairly good exercise.

Look for a little lane (just after the row of semis and on the same side) which heads down hill and cuts across the golf course. It starts narrow but gets wider and cuts through the trees. Kids had best wear wellies or trousers as there are nettles.

Plenty of things to keep the kids occupied

Our two seven year olds chatted happily as we set off and found lots to look at and talk about. They liked seeing the golfers and wanted to join in, which would have been hilarious (no, we didn’t let them) and they enjoyed the stream and the little iron bridge, which makes a satisfying sound when you stamp across it.

After crossing the bridge you need to head up the hill along Keeper Lane and this is where it gets quite steep. Keep going until the lane widens and there are houses and then turn left into Tong Lane. Goodalls ice cream and farm is a few metres along on the right.

Goodalls ice cream and farm

Goodalls make their own dairy ice-cream in lots of different flavours and there is always a queue in summer. You can sit inside in the twee little cafe or outside on picnic benches.

There are animals all around and there’s nothing that improves an ice-cream or a cup of tea more than a pot bellied pig and a goat or two. There are some incredibly noisy donkeys, wandering chickens, woolly sheep and ducks too.

We took a leisurely walk back to Pudsey, saving our energy for the steep climb right at the end (which at least helps to work off the ice-cream) and only one of the children gave up on the last leg, within a few feet of the car. Success, I think and it only cost about £6.

Day out at Ilkley Lido

A day out at Ilkley Lido, involving a car or train ride, a picnic, a swim and more ice cream. I am often surprised by the many people I meet who live in Leeds and tell me they have never been to Ilkley Lido. Are they all mad? What could be nicer than lounging around on the grass on a sunny day, surrounded by rolling hills and cool splashing water?

I like to think of it as Leeds on Sea and I treat it as I would a day at the seaside. It is not expensive, a little more than an ordinary swim would be, but you can stay all day if you want to.

Tips for visiting Ilkley Lido

A few tips: Plan to stay for the day, take folding chairs, towels, sun lotion and hats, a picnic, drinks, tennis rackets, a ball, a book. Either arrive early or arrive late. Monday to Friday the pool opens around 11 and shuts around 7.

Get there early and get in the queue to bag a good spot near the pool or get there mid afternoon and stay till they throw you out to get a peaceful swim (most people leave around 6pm) The lido shuts earlier at the weekend, sadly. Use the cafe, but not at peak times when the queue is huge. Go in the morning and get coffee and snacks and then again later to get an ice cream.

Be prepared to be brave – the water is cold. Even taking it slowly immersing shoulders takes your breath away but once you are actually in it is lovely to float around under the sky and you honestly don’t notice how cold it is, especially if you go regularly. It must be good for your health too judging by the age of some of the regular swimmers.

If you really can’t bear to put your whole body in the water, have a paddle and then go for a swim in the indoor pool, where it’s nice and warm, but often crowded. There is a slide and a fountain, plenty of space to spread out, plenty of parking, a bowling green and it is also near the river if you fancy a walk afterwards.

What’s not to like? See you there next time the sun comes out.

Leeds Map

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Read our guide to Leeds for ideas on the best places to visit, stay and eat in the city.

Days out with the kids near Leeds

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West Yorkshire sculpture has been given a great boost this year with the opening of the Hepworth Gallery in Wakefield, just a fifteen minute train-ride from the centre of Leeds. The Hepworth has had the London art media flocking north, and enhances the region’s reputation as a sculpture heartland.

Yorkshire Sculpture Park

The Yorkshire Sculpture Park at Bretton is just a short way down the M1, after all, and two of England’s best-known sculptors – Barbara Hepworth, after whom the Hepworth is named, and Henry Moore – were born nearby (in Wakefield and Castleford, respectively).

Leeds City Art gallery

But you don’t need to travel to Bretton or Wakefield to enjoy great sculpture. Leeds City Art Gallery houses a number of fascinating works by artists including Moore, Hepworth, Auguste Rodin and Anthony Gormley, while the Henry Moore Institute next door is entirely devoted to sculpture.

The fact is, you can see some fantastic pieces without even going inside: Moore’s monumental bronze Reclining Woman (1981) can be found lounging permanently at the top of the gallery steps.

Black Prince in the city square

Elsewhere in the city, the public statuary ranges from the traditional to the downright quirky. The grand figures of the Black Prince in the City Square, Carlo Marochetti’s Duke of Wellington in Hyde Park and William Behnes’ Robert Peel on Woodhouse Moor certainly fall into the former category – even if Wellington’s boots have been mischievously painted bright red.

The Barrelman

In the city centre, statues can be found behaving in rather more unexpected ways. In Dortmund Square, at one of the busiest junctures of the Headrow, the indefatigable ‘Barrelman’ eternally hefts a keg of beer.

The Barrelman was a gift to Leeds from the German city of Dortmund – danke, Dortmund! – and has been in his current spot since 1980. A few years ago, local artist Tom Pultney temporarily swathed the Barrelman in red-and-white barrier tape to create a new artwork, which he called Barred.

The continental connection

Tucked away in Bond Court, meanwhile, a set of bronzes provides another continental connection. Roger Burnett’s 2000 sculpture group depicts a family watching a man play the French game boules (a variation on English bowls).

The gravel area next to the sculptures is in fact a usable boules court – so, if you fancy, you can interrupt your sculpture tour for a set or two.

Mandela Gardens

At the western end of the Headrow, the Mandela Garden in Millennium Square is home to a striking bronze in the Moore tradition. William Armitage’s Both Arms depicts a vast pair of green-banded arms, outstretched imploringly.

Hidden gem of sculpture

A still more extraordinary creation can be found in a neglected courtyard around the back of the Merrion Centre, just off Claypit Lane. A real hidden gem for sculpture buffs, Glenn Hellman’s Androgyne was the result of a national competition for a piece of art to occupy the site.

It’s a strange, unsettling, abstract piece, cast in aluminium (not, as many sources claim, fibreglass) – and it’s a real shame that such an original work is so hard to find.

Champion Leeds sculpture

Rather more noticeable is a recent work that you’ll have to head a little way out of the city centre to see. Clare Bigger’s Triumphant is more dramatic than its bland, businesslike setting – the Leeds Valley Business Park, south-east of the city – might lead you to expect.

Six metres high and sculpted from gleaming stainless steel, the unmissable piece depicts a champion runner celebrating a victory lap. It’s vivid and graceful enough to make you forget its corporate background.

Greek myth Sisyphus

Returning again from the monumental to the distinctly quirky, Kevin Atherton’s A Reflective Approach is another work that brings much-needed style and charm to a modern urban development.

Located at Clarence Dock, the site of the Royal Armouries, the sculpture depicts two men pushing uselessly at two enormous mirrored balls. The piece recalls the Greek myth of Sisyphus, who was condemned to push a boulder up a slope for all eternity. Atherton’s work, like many others in Leeds, is a reminder that finding fascinating public art in Leeds needn’t be an uphill task.

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Browse the map and click on the pins to find the location of the places featured in this guide.

Read our guide to Leeds for ideas on the best places to visit, stay and eat in the city.

Walk around the Leeds sculpture trail

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The blaze of colour of a wonderful sunset is one of the memorable things about summer, and Leeds is not short of tranquil and beautiful spots where you can relax in the evening and watch the sun go down. Here are the best places for fabulous sunsets in Leeds.

Gotts Park (also known as Armley Park)

You can stroll down quiet paths lined with beautiful mature trees, past large grassed areas, and there is even a lovely old stone fountain. One of the best sights in the park is the impressive old Mansion House built in the style of a Greek villa, which was once home to mill owner Benjamin Gott.

Skylounge, Mint Hotel

The Skylounge at the Mint Hotel has to be one of the best places in Leeds to watch the sunset, as you look out over the cityscape of Leeds watching all the lights come on as it turns to dusk. The fabulous floor to ceiling windows of this luxurious cocktail bar give you a panoramic view not just of the cityscape, but of the rolling hills of Yorkshire beyond. And if you are feeling hungry, then the Skylounge doesn’t just do excellent drinks, but offers fine dining as well.

Rodley Barge pub

The Rodley Barge pub isn’t actually a barge, but a beautiful old stone building, and if you view it from the other side of the canal then it really does almost look like it’s floating on the water. This friendly and rather rustic feeling pub is praised for its beer, and also for its nice variety of retro music. There is a lovely relaxed beer garden out the back where you can look out over the water and watch the sunset.

Surprise View, Otley Chevin

The beautiful Otley Chevin is a wild ridge composed of woodland, heath and rocky outcrop with plenty of good paths and forest trails that make for easy walking. Its highest point is Surprise View which gives you a wonderful panoramic view over the Wharfe Valley, and some magnificent sunsets.

If you are not in the mood for walking, then it is handy that Surprise View is accessible by vehicle and has a car park. This is a great place to go if you have a dog, as dogs are allowed to run free all over the Chevin.

The Meanwood Valley Trail

Meanwood Valley Trail runs seven miles from Woodhouse Moor near the University of Leeds all the way out to Golden Acre Park, taking in Meanwood Park and Adel Woods on the way. Adel Woods are totally fascinating in themselves, with old aqueducts, and an old bunker the purpose of which seems to have been lost in the mists of time.

The path is well-signposted, so no need to worry about getting lost. Golden Acre Park is a nature reserve with a variety of terrain including woodland, parkland and marshland that harbours a wonderful array of wildlife including voles, mink, a variety of waterfowl, and even crayfish.

The park really lives up to its name when the sun goes down, being bathed in a warm golden glow. After the long walk it is good to know that there is a decent bus service back into Leeds out on the main Otley Road, and you might even seek refreshment in one of the Otley Run pubs on the way back, just to round off the day.

Beckett Park

Close to the Headingley campus of Leeds Metropolitan University is the rolling green Beckett Park, with large expanses of grass surrounded by woodland, and plenty of tall trees dotted about to provide shade.

With plenty of scope for recreation there is a children’s park, a skater park, tennis courts and nature trails. There is even a monument to Queen Victoria who visited Leeds in 1852. Nearby you have Otley Run pubs such as Woodies, Arcadia, Arc, and Headingley Taps.

So, if you find yourself in Leeds over the next few months, there are plenty of good places to see that summer sun make its way down over the horizon, ranging from hikers’ paradise to sedate parks, from cosy pub to cocktail lounge heaven.

Leeds Map

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Read our guide to Leeds for ideas on the best places to visit, stay and eat in the city.

Best places for fabulous sunsets in Leeds

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I am Leeds born and bred and it is a great place to live. In some ways I do not want the city to become an incredibly popular tourist destination but I do get frustrated when people visit England and spend all their time in London. The city is literally on the doorstep of the Yorkshire Dales, a beautiful, scenic part of the country, and well worth a visit.

So, why do I love Leeds?

Parks and open spaces in Leeds

I think Leeds has some of the best parks in Europe, no, I really do. I love walking around Roundhay Park with its award winning Chelsea flower show gardens, the lake, and places to relax in the sunshine. I cannot believe it took me 38 years living in Leeds before I visited Golden Acre Park, a fantastic place to take the kids and let them burn off some energy on a Sunday morning.

Within the city centre itself, there is Park Square, a popular place where locals sit and eat their lunch and watch the world go round. Or there is Temple Newsam, with its impressive Tudor-Jacobean house and rare breed home farm. You do not have to go far to find the countryside and highly recommended is a cycle ride along the Leeds and Liverpool canal.

Walking in Leeds

I am not the type of person who enjoys visiting the gym, or taking yoga classes, but I love to explore. I often take my 14 year old nephew on a walk and we are always discovering new places. The Leeds Country Way is a 62 mile walk around Leeds; you can join the walk at different stages, and it is never more than 7 miles from Leeds City Square, visiting places like Barwick-in-Elmet and Eccup Reservoir.

The Trans Pennine Trail starts in Leeds alongside the Royal Armouries. It follows several miles of peaceful paths along the River Aire and the Aire Calder Navigation. A north-south route connects Leeds and Chesterfield where 350 miles of countryside, riverside, trails are there for you to explore.

There are lots of smaller walks though; a walk up Otley Chevin is 2 miles and easy going. The walk around Eccup Reservoir is 5 miles and starts in Alwoodley and is a popular place to spot the Red Kite bird. The Meanwood Valley Trail which passes through Headingley, Meanwood and Woodhouse Moor is a personal favourite. There are many more walks in Leeds for you to explore.

Independent places to eat

After all that walking, you might want to find somewhere nice to eat, and Leeds has a growing number of places that aren’t national chains, provide good service and more importantly good local food. If it is a sandwich and a coffee you want then head to Laynes Espresso, Opposite Cafe or Graze, and are all popular with locals.

The markets in Leeds are a good place to pick up a bite to eat, the farmers market is on the first and third Sunday of the month at Kirkgate open market; you will also find local food on offer at places like the new Kirkstall Deli market, Oakwood Farmers market – all good places to support independent foodie suppliers.

Fascinating Leeds history

The history of Leeds is quite fascinating and I love reading the blue plaques to find out more about the history of my home city. You will see them on well-known buildings such as Leeds Infirmary, Kirkgate Market and Leeds Bridge. Some interesting dates in the city’s history are; in 1888 the City Art Gallery opened, in 1903 The Black Prince in City Square was unveiled and in 1959 the last tram in Leeds withdrawn from service.

The Leeds architecture

There’s no doubt that Leeds is home to some ugly buildings, a few notable mentions are the Yorkshire Evening Post building and Quarry House, but in general Leeds has some impressive architecture. While many locals seem to dislike the Broadcasting Tower, I love it. Thankfully Leeds was not too badly damaged during the wars, so the Town Hall (built 1858), Civic Hall (built 1933) and the Corn Exchange (built in 1864) remain and are impressive.

Rather than walking around with my head to the ground, I have started to look up at the buildings around me;  it is amazing what you discover, and while I am not a fan of the fancy new apartments and offices springing up around the city, Leeds does has a mix of different styles of architecture.

I hope this guide has inspired you to visit Leeds, or if you are a local, it has made you want to explore, discover the city because it has a lot to offer for everyone.

Leeds Map

Browse the map and click on the pins to find the location of the places featured in this guide.

Read our guide to Leeds for ideas on the best places to visit, stay and eat in the city.

Why I love living in Leeds

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Yoga is a popular form of exercise for body and mind. Many people take up yoga to improve their flexibility, strength and general well-being, and most gyms have one or more yoga classes as part of their regular programme. However, if you are more seriously into the benefits of Yoga and looking to practise in Leeds, below is a list of the best Yoga teachers in the city.

Yoga Lab

Just opposite Boudoir Lower Briggate, Yoga lab has a tranquil yet stylish atmosphere. It is very welcoming with beautiful wooden furniture in the reception area, lots of light and the aroma of authentic yogic incense. The studios are mirrored, but unlike most gym classes, the studio is beautifully warm, with natural air and light, which makes a huge difference to the practise of yoga.

This atmosphere allows a fuller and deeper relaxation, which is a fundamental ingredient of any quality Yoga practise.  A nice touch is the use of a sand timer instead of a clock – try it out, it’s ‘magic’. Yoga lab is run by ex-dancer Jamie Blowers, who trained in New York and California, and is the first yoga teacher to bring the ‘rocket’ style of yoga to Leeds. Rocket reminds us what it feels like to be in the child body again, we can fall lose balance and just get back up again.

The Yoga Space

The Yoga Space was the first dedicated yoga centre to set up in Yorkshire and opened in 2004. The centre offers a wide range of classes to suit all levels and has a reputation for excellent teaching, training and workshops. The classes take place in a tranquil, warm and welcoming environment. Teachers are trained to a high standard, with many years of both practicing Yoga and teaching it. Classes offered include Ashtanga, Pregnancy Yoga, Vinyasa Flow and Hatha Yoga.

Yoga Buzz

Leeds based yoga classes taught by Bridget Rowan. Bridget has a holistic approach to yoga, believing that it is a way of life not just something we experience for 1 ½ hour once a week. She has been teaching yoga in Leeds since 2002, experiencing many styles of yoga and has a great respect for the human body & spirit & connects deeply with the natural cycles of our planet, incorporating all these aspects in teaching. You will find classes in Satyananda Yoga, Yoga for pregnancy.

Clare McAlpine

Clare McAlpine classes are one of the longest running classes in the city. Clare is a deeply knowledgeable and highly experienced yoga teacher and I first went to her classes at Wrangthorn Church in Hyde Park over 20 years ago. Her classes transformed my mind as much as my body and the classes have a new home at Heart in Headingley, which is gorgeous with under-floor heating! These are friendly, meditative classes open to all. There are no assumptions about ability or previous experience as techniques accommodate and challenge everyone according to their unique make-up.

Yoga directs us to the resources that lie within and encourages us to gently loosen the grip of will and habit enough to allow these resources to flourish for greater ease, connection, depth and kindness. There are a thousand ways to learn about this and each class offers a different facet of yoga to explore. The classes are quite gentle physically, but techniques require your rigorous attention. You can find classes on Mondays and Wednesdays at 18.00 at the Heart.

Gillian Shippey

Another Leeds teacher worth a special mention is Gillian Shippey: another ex-dancer and really experienced teacher who did most of her training at the Krishnamacharya Yoga Mandiram in India. Gillian has taught all across Leeds and now teaches privately in LS8 or weekly classes in Ilkley.

Gillian had a brain haemorrhage in 2006 and has used yoga nidra (yoga sleep) and yoga to aid her recovery. She is an inspiration and a real advocate for the benefits of Yoga. Gillian has great compassion and one of her specialisms is working with pre and post pregnancy Yoga. Classes concentrate on Birth preparation, pre and post-natal yoga, yoga for pregnancy, baby yoga, one to one, yoga retreats, as well as general classes.

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Where to learn Yoga at classes in Leeds

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I have lived in Leeds all of my life and as a local it is very easy to forget what is on your doorstep, so I set myself a challenge to spend time discovering new places. I also want to make sure that this trip around the city centre is affordable for everyone and prove that you can have a day out and not have to raid the bank.

Leeds city art gallery

Leeds city art gallery is located on the Headrow, and is opened 7 days a week, but check opening times on their website because these do change depending on the day you want to visit. Entrance to the museum is free and is home to a collection of 20th century British art. I am not an arty type but I loved the paintings and sculptures and spent an age looking at the abstract art to try and understand what was in the artists mind at the time.

Once you have spent some time wandering around the gallery head towards the Tiled Hall Cafe near the entrance to the art gallery. Make sure you look up and admire the decorative tiles and roof arches in the former Victorian reading room which was restored to expose its original features.

Leeds central library

I walked into the central library for the first time since I visited on a school trip, yes, some 23 years ago. Normally I would not visit a library but there’s more to do than just borrowing books. On the 1st floor are tapestry’s of Leeds past and present, a must visit, or if you want to learn more about the local history then head towards the 3rd floor. Even if you do not read many books, there is lots to see and do at the central library. As I was walking around I found myself amazed by the architecture, sculptures, and the tiles, yes, I was even attracted to the tiles.

Fuji Hiro

This Japanese restaurant comes highly recommended and is tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the city centre on Wade Lane, at the side of the Merrion Centre. When you walk in you are greeted with complimentary smiles and taken to your table. The service is excellent and the portions are huge. I can recommend the Yaki Soba, which consists of chicken, prawns, with pan fried noodles, it was delicious.

Leeds Kirkgate Market

Leeds Kirkgate is the largest covered market in Europe and is housed in a fabulous Grade I listed building. When I was a lad, I remember my mum dragging me around Kirkgate market and I lost count the amount of times that I found myself lost in the crowd of people. Nowadays, the market is much quieter but what I love about it is that you can find anything from fruit and veg to Japanese jewellery.

Unfortunately, the atmosphere has disappeared from the market but you can still pick up a bargain. The market is an essential part of the city, and it is important that as locals and tourists we support the local traders who do business there.

Leeds Corn Exchange including Anthony’s restaurant

Leeds Corn Exchange

The past is exactly that and I think it’s important that we look forward where the Corn Exchange is concerned. After a number of years of neglect, it seems that it is again transforming itself to be a popular destination for locals and tourists. Downstairs you will find Anthony’s restaurant, on street and upper levels are a number of boutique shops.

I would also love to see this become a live music venue – a place where people can shop, relax with a coffee and listen to local bands. I am imagining classical music played from the top level of the Corn Exchange as people mingle, shop, and chat with family and friends.

The Adelphi pub

To finish off the day visit the Adelphi pub on Dock Street. It’s a five minute walk from Briggate or Brewery wharf. The pub has bags of character, a good choice of beers, including my favourite Leeds pale. Each room is different; I would go as far to say that it is a quirky pub.

That’s it – I really enjoyed being a tourist in my home city. I spent less than £15 and a good proportion of that was on lunch, so you can have a day out in Leeds city centre without breaking the bank. Emma and Tessa also wrote about their local jaunt around the city. Please do support the central library, art gallery and markets because they are an essential part of my home city.

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Browse the map and click on the pins to find the location of the places featured in this guide.

Read our guide to Leeds for ideas on the best places to visit, stay and eat in the city.

Local’s view of Leeds through a tourist’s eyes

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Whilst Leeds has plenty to offer in terms of a modern, vibrant and lively city one of its attractions is that within a short distance there is plenty on offer to help in this regard. Although running continues to be a popular activity, both cycling and walking are gaining in terms of numbers as people look to escape the hectic pace of the city and explore some of the outdoors at a pace they can appreciate.

Various walking routes on the canal

On our doorstep here in Leeds is the Leeds and Liverpool Canal which has a number of different routes that provide a different glimpse of the City than you may have come across before. The Leeds and Liverpool Canal spans a distance of 127 miles (204km) and crosses the Pennines to link the cities of Leeds and Liverpool. It includes 91 locks on the main line in addition to several small branches. It was initially built to help facilitate trade between the growing towns of Leeds, Wakefield and Bradford with the port of Liverpool.

Family friendly bicycle routes

In recent times Leeds has undergone regeneration around its part of the canal. The eastern end of the Leeds & Liverpool Canal in particular has some great walks and is often the starting point for different walking and cycling routes.

A particularly impressive and well-known trail is the Aire Valley Towpath route. The route links the 26km length of towpath on the Canal between Leeds and Bingley and is suitable for all both walkers and cyclists and forms part of the National Cycle Network – Route 66. It provides a fantastic opportunity to explore part of the canal and encompasses urban areas, beautiful countryside and the peace and quiet of a canal side location with interesting and historical places to visit.

City centre to Kirkstall Abbey route

Starting from Granary Wharf on the edge of the City centre, the towpath takes you on a peaceful route through the bustling city of Leeds. You will pass a number of historic buildings including Leeds Industrial Museum at Armley Mills, Kirkstall Brewery (now Leeds University student accommodation) and medieval Kirkstall Abbey on the banks of the River Aire.

Walks to Apperley Bridge

From here, the canal winds through the attractive rural areas and towns including Bramley Falls, Rodley, including the Nature Reserve adjacent to the waterway, Calverley Woods, Apperley Bridge, Buck Woods at Thackley, the junction of the old Bradford Canal and the town of Shipley before reaching its destination at the World Heritage Site village of Saltaire. A popular variation of this route is taking it from Leeds to Apperley Bridge, a distance of around 9 miles in total.

West Leeds trail along the canal

For those with a little more time on their hands and keen for a greater distance there is the West Leeds Country Park & Green Gateways trail. The 32km circular trail runs from the City Centre, through the green corridor of the Aire Valley and into the countryside around Calverley. From there the trail follows the green corridor between Leeds and Bradford, making its way through the countryside south of Pudsey before finally entering the urban areas of Armley and Wortley.

Here the interest is maintained by using the parks and ginnels as stepping stones to effect the full circle back to the Leeds Liverpool Canal and the City Centre. Although quite lengthy in total, there are a number of points along the way where the route can be picked up and tailored to your own wishes.

River Aire and Calverley and Rodley route

Initially developed as part of the Calverley Project 2000 enterprise and now an official annual event is a seven mile walking route around the area of greenery separating Leeds and Bradford. The officially-suggested starting point is at Calverley Bridge over the River Aire, just north of Rodley roundabout although it can also be joined further down at Apperley Bridge.

The particular stretch of towpath from here through to Rodley is known to be popular particularly in the spring and summer months when the weather brings the best out of the wild flowers and dense woods either side of the canal and proof that venturing beyond the city streets is most definitely an enjoyable way to spend a morning and afternoon – and keep fit in the process.

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Leeds Map

Browse the map and click on the pins to find the location of the places featured in this guide.

Read our guide to Leeds for ideas on the best places to visit, stay and eat in the city.

Walks on the Leeds and Liverpool canal

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